Aria collection celebrates Gucci’s 100th anniversary


As the sirens sound and the subwoofers sound, a tall model in a satin suit walks into the Savoy Club – a tribute to the Savoy Hotel where Guccio Gucci worked as a bellboy. Looking through the eye hole, the model sees a blissful wilderness. As they enter, Lil Pump’s “Gucci Gang” (2017) begins to play. Next, the models quickly parade down a hallway as recessed cameras mounted on the wall illuminate them. When the final model comes out, they wander through their subtly clustered colleagues and open large black doors to the teased Wonderland upon opening. Models flock to this wonderful world, joining white peacocks, cockatoos and horses basking in the misty wind. Shortly after, the video ends as the models float and reach for the sparkling sky.

Wow. One hundred years of Gucci. While some partied with champagne and fireworks, Gucci Creative Director Alessandro Michele celebrates with his Aria Collection (2021): a showcase of Gucci’s historic brilliant craftsmanship with a touch of modern creativity. Michele vehemently asserts: “Gucci’s long history cannot be contained in a single inaugural act,” and his work certainly reflects the brand’s countless inspirations: the “horse wear” of founder Guccio Gucci; the hedonistic aesthetic of former creative director Tom Ford; and Michele’s chic style. Exploring Gucci’s past, Michele fuses Gucci classics with modern flair, historic material with modern organization, and vintage composition with a new school sound.

In its early years, Gucci took pride in its luxury clothing made with premium materials, and Michele certainly praises this dignity, composing historic pieces from satin, leather and Gucci’s famous GG canvas, adorned throughout. a double logo G. Michele draws on the early archives of Guccio Gucci to produce clothing inspired by 19th century horsemanship: saddle bags worn on leather breastplates threaded by riders; riding boots of rubber covering the jodhpurs of leather; and tassel whips, equestrian straps, harnesses and helmets.

After being appointed Creative Director of Gucci in the 1990s, Ford began to move consumers and critics alike by exploring erotic clothing. Referring to Ford’s bon vivant style, Michele contrasts Guccio Gucci’s monotonous riding clothes with saturated and seductive clothes. In fact, Michele opens her collection with a velvet suit (fabric and color) paired with a sky blue button down shirt that opens to reveal a bondage style choker and chain. Ford’s influence is evident as Michele sporadically flaunts lustrous suits, glamorous accessories, and sparkling fabrics.

With his 2014-2016 rebirth, Michele has relaunched Gucci classics such as the double G monogram and luxurious handbags while addressing modern fashion trends like geek-chic and androgyny. Combining Gucci iconography with modern concepts, colors and silhouettes, Michele has created a lively Gucci canon that appeals to young fashionistas and adults alike. However, Michele recognizes the importance of homage and limits the frequency of his art – chic skirts and dresses, androgynous clothing and extravagant accessories – by placing it secretly in the collection.

But there is an elephant (or maybe a horse) in the room: Balenciaga. Michele described his process as an experiment in a “hacking lab of forays and metamorphoses,” and Balenciaga appears to be “hacking” certain pieces as Michele uses styles “stolen” from Balenciaga’s creative director, Georgian designer Demna. Gvasalia. Some of these hacked pieces include a suit dress, handbag and heels with an all-over floral print and diagonal black “Balenciaga” pattern, a sparkling pantsuit wrapped in “GUCCI” and “BALENCIAGA” and a blazer. pointed with a Balenciaga print interrupting GG Canvas.

Throughout the anniversary collection, Michele manages 100 years of history by confusing vintage Guccio Gucci clothing with the alluring aesthetic of Tom Ford, mixing lingerie and rubber riding boots or horsebit loafers and satin blazers, while exhibiting its own contemporary creativity. In my favorite look – which I think sums up the collection – Michele combines all three aesthetics, pairing bright red dress pants and a muted magenta double-breasted suede jacket, which covers a salmon button-down shirt. The model accessorizes with a blush fur shawl and wears classic tan horsebit loafers. Although “Gucci is a complex container that holds many, many things,” Michele selects groundbreaking moments from Gucci history and honors them accordingly by combining past, present, future and Balenciaga, and “[renewing] for the millionth time this brand, this name, this myth, this saga.

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