At Hermès, an escape into a future of travel

GLOSS THE RECORD – Marbbie Tagabucba – The Philippine Star

October 6, 2021 | 00h00

Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski takes us to the airport for an optimistic collection.

It’s “airport fashion”, but not as we know it.

When we can enjoy unrestricted travel again, we don’t need to be sweaty.

The artistic director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski seduces us with the hope of new perspectives and escape in her latest collection for Hermès.

“It’s more than building a wardrobe, it’s about rediscovering sensations,” she told Women’s Wear Daily. “I think these days people need to be reassured, but personally I also want to feel encouraged to continue living, and therefore I think it is important that this is a wellness event. . “

Informed by our casual wardrobes, just like the easing of travel restrictions, her clothes too. Ease doesn’t have to be synonymous with laid back, embodied in its angled cut changes. A gathered waistband with drawstring, like the brand’s pouches, is found in flared skirts and wide pants. There is an undercurrent of feminist sensuality in the precise way the skin is revealed, in the way the silhouettes draw the body without binding it.

“I looked at a lot of dresses from the 1920s because it was interesting to be able to understand this release of the body from the corsets, and the movement,” continues Vanhee-Cybulski.

Structured triangle crop tops and halterneck crop tops are cropped to reveal the shoulders with an athletic edge, worn with pleated pants or loose pants with cargo pockets; a nod to the ’90s and a trendy couple that some of us might see for the second time, and for good reason – they remind me of my youth, a time when the possibilities were endless.

The craftsmanship and heritage of the house shines in very Hermès unexpected craftsmanship and details. Buttery calfskin is a revelation as a strapless dress, while a matching coat, crop top and micro-skirt are in silk gauze, layered with paving appliques of fine yellow lambskin. paper. The same studs from the brand’s coveted handbags are set on leather trims, catching the light like pearls as they adorn the belted jackets. These studs also cover the most flowing silk gauze on a square neck. Harnesses are used as eyelets and abbreviated as collar and cuff with circular leather links. The scarf prints are fuzzy on the silk pieces.

A new cylindrical handbag with a horsebit handle and matching horsebit cuff, a new iteration of Sac Mors a Bride, and an effortless way to carry a messenger bag.

Leather sandals with T-straps and platform soles go with everything, some worn with matching lambskin socks. New top-handle cylindrical bags with horsebit handles debuted in this collection, paired with an abbreviated cuff of the same horsebit.

Over the past year, airlines have been selling “fly to nowhere” experiences for this promise of escape. Looking at the Hermès terminal with hand-painted solar landscapes by artist Flora Moscovici filled with people, I am optimistic. Soon we will all be able to fly to the sun.

Hermès’ know-how and heritage shine through in unexpected designs such as this bustier and gathered belt in molded butter calfskin.

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Hermès is at Greenbelt 3, Ayala Center, Makati.

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