Review of the Burberry spring 2023 fashion show
Covered exposure
By Mark Wittmer
For Spring 2023, Riccardo Tisci takes Burberry on a beachwear-inspired exploration of clothing’s dual purpose of concealing and revealing – but the literalism and rigidity of Burberry’s house codes still seem to be an obstacle to creative ambition. of the creator.
The collection is inspired by the beach as a place where humanity meets, a point where different worlds collide,” Tisci explained in her show notes.
“The tension between dressing and undressing, between revealing and protecting, underwear and outerwear… I was inspired by the liberation and openness of youth, of people embracing their bodies and reveal it – a pride of themselves.”
This reference to dressing or undressing by the beach doesn’t come across too literally (aside from flip-flops, sun hats, and snorkeling goggles), instead feeling abstractly as a deconstructionist sensibility that reworks familiar codes with new principles of exhibition design and revelation. The removed sleeves become waist-defining belts; jumpsuits are worn over dresses, while elsewhere exaggerated fishnets are worn underneath; underwear details like garters and clasps are transformed into visible structural features of the outer layers; strappy bikini lines shape tops and dresses. Defying the unspoken cut-out code that certain things must remain hidden, a few dresses are given what can only be described as butts.
A sense of gothic romance that characterized much of Tisci’s iconic run at Givenchy worked its way through the collection, palpable in the layering of lace and sheer, as well as forays into kink. What might turn out to be the best-selling piece in the collection are the accompanying t-shirts and sweatshirt, printed with esoteric and secret society graphics and slogans. Flipping the sun-kissed feel suggested by seaside inspiration, luxurious off-the-shoulder velvet dresses hit killer all-black silhouettes to close out the show. The introduction of a new monogrammed lace tights fabric incorporating the house’s historic equestrian knight logo has also been linked to this move and looks set to rival Gucci’s similar motif.
Although the collection sees Tisci interested in exploring design ideas that feel distinctly contemporary – as opposed to last season, which felt like a deep dive into the history of bourgeois and aristocratic British dress – as with most of her collections for the home, her work feels like her pushing against the constraints of the Burberry identity that lock her in. While Tisci strives to push fashion forward and look beyond the confines of established codes, Burberry’s codes are so literal and historic. Every time a trench coat (however slightly “reimagined” this time around) or familiar brown plaid pops up, we feel grounded, as if Tisci is making a forced concession to the Burberry Britishness requirements and commercial appeal.
It is therefore difficult to find clarity and cohesion in the collection as a whole – its identity seems fragmented. Nevertheless, there are bright moments of brilliance in the layered design and style.
Tisci does a great job with the tools he has, and we’re grateful for that – we can’t help but wonder if his relationship with the house is still mutually beneficial.
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