Denim, comfort and American fashion statements – Sourcing Journal


The Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art unofficially closed New York Fashion Week on Monday with the first star-studded Met Gala since 2019.

The new exhibition “In America: A Lexicon of Fashion” aims to establish a modern vocabulary of American fashion based on its expressive qualities. Open to visitors from September 18, the small-scale exhibition features 100 looks of men and women that represent 12 emotions, including nostalgia, belonging, pleasure, joy, wonder, affinity. , confidence, strength, desire, confidence, comfort and awareness.

The exhibition is particularly contemporary compared to previous exhibitions of the Costume Institute.

Sterling Ruby’s “Veil Flag”, a denim envelope made during the Black Lives Matter movement in summer 2020, anchors the first exhibition space. The flag, which explores the concept of this symbolic element “as an evolving signifier and how our relationship with it can change when activated as a veil,” is featured alongside the quote from Jesse Jackson of the Democratic National Committee of 1984 comparing the United States to a quilt rather than a blanket made from a single unbroken piece of fabric.

The space also houses upcycled, patchwork and quilted pieces by Heron Preston, Greg Lauren, Bode and No Sesso, as well as a 1976 dress made from recycled denim clothing from Serendipity 3, the New York born general store. in the 1950s which is now a tourist hotspot for Instagram-worthy desserts.

“In America: a fashion lexicon”

Sweaters with the American flag line a hallway to the second floor. Heirloom designs by Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger are juxtaposed with Mexican American Willy Chavarria’s 2019 Falling Stars sweater reflecting the “fear and alienation experienced by immigrants to the United States”. Denim Tears’ 2021 “Tyson Beckford” sweater, a reinterpretation of Ralph Lauren’s design, replaces the American flag with a version of the Pan-African flag.

The main gallery illustrates the eclecticism of American fashion ranging from Christopher John Rogers’ F / W ’20 plaid taffeta ball gown, Thom Browne uniforms and a Halston shirt dress to Savage X Fenty lingerie. American fashion’s fixation on comfort is evident in the checkered flannel pieces by A. Potts, the quilted dress by Matthew Adams Dolan and a row of preppy casual wear from Fear of God, Tommy Hilfiger, Perry Ellis. and more.

The exhibition also touches on industry topics such as inclusiveness and sustainability. Christian Siriano’s same black slip dress is featured on models of three different sizes and genders, while looks from Eckhaus Latta, Kidsuper and Imitation of Christ illustrate the wide range of upcycling possibilities.

A trio of denim looks represented the qualities of awareness, awareness and mindfulness, themes that have been relevant in the global denim industry in recent years. Threeasfour’s look combined new denim with recycled paint splatter jeans. The stitching details on the Who Decides War denim jacket and jeans, which designer Ev Bravado has worked on for over 40 hours, represent the rise of streetwear, while Denim Tears’ collaboration with Levi’s highlighted shed light on the cotton industry’s slave past. .

The second part of the exhibition, “In America: A Fashion Anthology”, will open on May 5, 2022 and feature sartorial stories related to the history of the museum’s American Wing period rooms.

The theme of the party

Just as the exhibition invites viewers to develop their interpretation of American fashion, guests at the Met Gala have taken both literal and creative approaches to dressing for the theme.

Along with model Ella Emhoff, Vice President’s daughter-in-law Kamala Harris, Stella McCartney and longtime partner Adidas created the red, white and blue ensembles worn by the 30-person Brooklyn United marching band that kicked off the festive evening. The group donned Adidas by Stella McCartney jumpsuits and Earthlight sneakers made with high-performance recycled yarn and a partially recycled midsole.

In a press release, McCartney noted that the sportswear looks marked a first for the Met Gala. “It speaks to the new world of the Met Gala; one that is more diverse, inclusive and with athletes and activists, not just celebrities and models, ”she said.

It was a good night’s sleep for the denim all around. Besides its strong presence in the gallery, the guests turned to 100% American fabric for their outfits.

In keeping with his brand’s shift to sustainable denim, designer Tommy Hilfiger sported a Tommy Hilfiger x Denis Frison single-breasted tuxedo blazer in recycled vintage denim with a red and blue striped silk patchwork lining and high waisted pants in recycled vintage denim. .

“Fashion has always been influenced by the world around it, but it has undergone one of its biggest transformations as a result of the unprecedented events of the past year,” said Hilfiger. “As designers and brands, we have had to completely rethink who we are and what we stand for. What inspired me on this journey of reconstruction is the opportunity to create a more sustainable, equitable and inclusive future for the next generation of fashion.

For rocker Debbie Harry, Zac Posen designed a fitted denim jacket and skirt from ripped red and white stripes reminiscent of the American flag. Actor and singer Ben Platt donned a 70s-inspired denim ensemble by Christian Cowan. Oscar-winning actress Lupita Nyong’o paired DeBeers diamonds with a crystal-embellished Versace dress made with denim panels.

Statements were also made on the Met’s grand staircase. Representative Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez (DN.Y.) wore a custom Brother Vellies white dress and bag marked “Tax the Rich” in red. The design was inspired by “the call to action to tax those who continue to create power and wealth at the expense of marginalized communities,” the label said. Elements of the look also nod to Ocasio-Cortez’s Puerto Rican heritage, with Puerto Rico’s official flower, Flor De Maga, featured on his shoes.

“Although it’s set in New York City, the culture at the Met Gala is anything but,” Ocasio-Cortez said. “NYC is often synonymous with inclusiveness, inviting millions of people from all walks of life to come to this city. The Met Gala, on the other hand, is seen as elitist and inaccessible. I’m attending today because I want to change that and shine a light on women of color who are often not included at events like these.

In addition to Ocasio-Cortez, model and actress Leyna Bloom, singer and actress Audra McDonald and Gap Inc. CEO Sonia Syngal wore Brother Vellies. Aurora James, founder and creative director of the label and founder of Fifteen Percent Pledge, recently starred in Gap’s “Generation Good” campaign.

Gap’s Athleta brand, meanwhile, made their own statement working with Area to design the 88-pound crystal-covered dress seen on four-time Olympic gold medalist Simon Biles.

American poet and recent Vogue cover star Amanda Gorman made her Met Gala debut as co-chair of the event. Gorman worked with Vera Wang to create a personalized tribute to the Statue of Liberty, including a cover inspired by a book that read “Give Us Your Fated.”

Others have focused on America’s cowboy past. Jennifer Lopez styled her Ralph Lauren crystal and feather embellished dress with a faux fur bolero and western hat. Kacey Musgraves wore an equestrian skirt and riding boots from the American designer. Pharrell Williams was decked out in an all-leather western outfit from Chanel. Singer Leon Bridges stepped out in a blue suede fringed jacket from Bode.

Meanwhile, Kim Petras embraced horse chic with a Collina Strada dress fitted with a horse-head bodice.

Kim Petras in Collina Strada

Kim Petras in Collina Strada

Decision makers

The gala also hosted looks that will go down in the annals of Meta Gala history simply for their impact on pop culture.

Kanye West and Kim Kardashian West continued to sport incognito looks at high profile events, this time dressed head-to-toe in black Balenciaga. In the tradition of Lady Gaga à la 2019, Lil Nas X opted for three different looks before heading to the museum: a gold Versace cape, a bulletproof vest and a sparkling jumpsuit.

Rihanna, a late arrival in fashion with boyfriend A $ AP Rocky, wearing a custom Balenciaga dress that riffed on a black quilted coat. The multi-feature mogul styled her outfit with a black knit beanie and diamond accessories.

Along with showing another side of her personal style in an Oscar de la Renta peach tulle ball gown, co-chair Billie Eilish wielded the power Gen Z wields over legendary fashion houses. The New York Times reported that Eilish told the brand that they would only wear the Oscar de la Renta at the gala if the brand stopped selling fur, which they agreed to.

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