In season two, the “Bridgerton” costumes help usher in another steamy, outrageous romance.

We have been burning for the second episode of the soapy and steamy Regency Era-set Netflix series “Bridgerton,” which kicks off on the same occasion as the first time around: wedding season. As expected, new levels of deception, betrayal and vigorous romance (forbidden and not) await in the Shondaland juggernaut – along with a new procession of authentic period spectaculars.ish costumes by Sophie Canale.

Stepping up from an assistant in the first season, the costume designer inherited the series’ formidable atelier and in-house atelier, with a team of over 200 embroiderers, embellishers, builders and jewelry designers.

“Ellen Mirojnick created this amazing world in season one, and in season two I had this really amazing opportunity to develop their characters,” Canale said.

Following his predecessor, Canale liked to take a lot of creative freedom with bold anachronistic color palettes, contemporary fabrics and inventive embellishments on circa 1814 silhouettes – like the spunky Spencer jackets, cut in the front and finely pleated on a trailing back, to accentuate the empire waist. To differentiate the characters and enliven the composition, she mixed contemporary elements into the vintage cap sleeves, with petal shapes, contrasting piping, rounded puffs and a 70s-style flutter (below).

Edwina Sharma (Charithra Chandran) and her sister Kate (Simone Ashley) play at the pall-mall with the Bridgertons: Anthony (Jonathan Bailey), Colin (Luke Newton), Benedict (Luke Thompson), Eloise (Claudia Jessie) and Daphne (Phoebe Dynevor).

The costume designer was also happy to drop some humorous sartorial Easter eggs, like coordinating flower-embroidered dresses with small, essential-only Regency handbags — or “crosshairs” (below).

“There is an orange [fruit] crosshairs as well,” says Canale. “There are all these exciting little things that will catch your eye.

Contemporary catwalks, including those of Chanel, helped inspire inauthentic fabrics and textures, such as the nubby chenille, which would not be introduced to Britain until the 1830s (or only become popular for clothing in the 1970s).

While prowling the errands looking for gossip for her undercover alter ego, Lady Whistledown (London’s high-society Two Selves), Penelope Featherington (Nicola Coughlan) dons an adorable polka-dot chenille Spencer jacket. (Tacky sis Prudence, played by Jessie Carter, crosses the line of sophistication with the glass flower and embroidered leaf embellishments on hers.) And, yes, Penelope maintains her trademark intense yellows, at one point lamenting, “Seems I got tired of the color.”

“I’ve pushed a little more pink into her color palette this year — she’s a year older,” says Canale, who added bubblegum-hued accents like a profusion of bows and bows. 3D floral appliqués.

Penelope Featherington (Nicole Coughlan) pairs her dress with her handbag, or “crosshairs,” as they say in Regency and Eloise.

Penelope Featherington (Nicole Coughlan) pairs her dress with her handbag, or “crosshairs,” as they say in Regency and Eloise.

Pen’s best friend Eloise Bridgerton (Claudia Jessie, above) continues her signature masculine-influenced tailoring of natty Spencer jackets over chiffon blouses, complete with ruffles and bows at the neckline. “She’s unwavering in what she wears, really,” says Canale, who has moved the teenager into checks and stripes this season.

Now that Eloise’s older sister – and last season’s Diamond debutante – Daphne (Phoebe Dynevor) is settled into a blissful union with Sir Hotness, aka the Duke of Hastings (Regé-Jean Page), the marriage pressure is mounting. lays on the older brother, Lord Anthony (Jonathan Bailey). The tightly coiled head of the perfect, sprawling aristocratic family attempts to follow its sense of duty – not its heart (or any other instinct) – choosing a bride during the annual regency rendition of “The Bachelor.”

The Sharma sisters, probably discussing Anthony.

The Sharma sisters, probably discussing Anthony.

Ideally, two generations of the Sharma family return from Bombay, to the childhood home of matriarch Lady Mary (Shelley Conn), Mayfair London – the one she left mingled with scandal. His youngest daughter, caring ingenue Edwina (Charithra Chandran), prepares for the engagement tour. Under the guidance of Lady Danbury (Adjoa Andoh), she hopes to gain the approval of Queen Charlotte (Golda Rosheuvel), who is keen to unmask Lady Whistledown. Older sister Kate (Simone Ashley), who at the ripe old age of 26 supposedly has no interest in a match of her own, regulates the courtship process, taking over the role of cock blocker held by Anthony last season.

‘Lilac is the symbol of first love,’ says Daphne, on one of her return visits to the lavish country house in Bridgerton, while Simon is probably too busy with the duke’s duties and raising the children . Notably, Kate and the Sharma women, with their own hidden secrets, wear the soft, romantic hue during defining moments (above):”[Lilac is] also brings the family together,” says Canale.

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Kate and Anthony during one of their laser striking moments.

Kate and Anthony during one of their laser striking moments.

Kate literally takes to the stage establishing her signature, captivating and commanding jewel tones. During one of her early morning horseback rides, she tears up the countryside in a puffy teal velvet cape ensemble (above) – immediately catching the interest of the usually grumpy Anthony on a ride of shame

“Kate is a strong character. She’s single and a mother figure to her sister, so I wanted to represent that both in the color palette and also in the fabrics I chose for her,” says Canale. “Then, as we walked through [the season]there’s a softer element and the color scheme also changes.”

Kate’s deep sapphires and teals also pay homage to the Sharma family’s Indian heritage – “a conscious decision”, says Canale, who researched and incorporated gold embroidery and Indian-inspired silk fabrics into the jackets. Authentic Spencer and empire waist silhouettes. Sharma women also wear shiny, stone-encrusted rose gold jewellery: “Poonam [Thanki]one of our jewelers, is of Indian descent, so it was great to have so much knowledge from her. (The Bridgertons adorn their polished looks with cool silvers, while the Featheringtons slick themselves with flashier golds.)

Kate, probably trying not to think about Anthony.

Kate, probably trying not to think about Anthony.

Paisley (or “boteh” and “buto” in Persian) also features prominently in Sharmas’ wardrobes, through elaborate prints and intricate embroidery. The teardrop shapes originated in Persia more than 2,000 years ago, in the area now between the border of India and Pakistan, near Kashmir and Iran – not the Liberty of London of the 19th century.

Joining a hunting excursion with the Bridgerton Bros, Kate wears an elegant riding outfit in sturdy wool, complemented by a casual top hat (below), decorated with paisley embroidery. While maneuvering on the pitch, she accidentally flashes her white socks over the knee and a bit of bare leg – almost sending an overly restrained Anthony into a swoon. Canale confirms that sexy thigh-high “stockings” are, in fact, okay: “I don’t know if you’ve seen it on screen, but they’re also embroidered on the leg.”

Obviously, they burn for each other.

Obviously, they burn for each other.

Under pressure, Anthony finds himself “vexed” by his conflicting feelings about his impending decision and his bouts of heavy gasping, especially when Kate is around. All hot and annoyed, he tumbles into the lake, fully dressed in his finery. Anthony emerges with his white shirt in an absurdly transparent, waterlogged state – seemingly paying homage to another repressed Regency Zaddy moment: a soaking wet Colin Firth as Mr. Darcy, slowly emerging from a misty lake into the 1995 miniseries version of “Pride and Prejudice”. (Not to mention that unbuttoned, open-necked shirt moment in the dark library, when Anthony and Kate are both suffering from desire-induced insomnia.)

“Whenever you see this kind of man from Regency, everyone will automatically go to [Firth as Mr. Darcy] because it’s such a famous scene,” Canale laughs.

Seriously, how transparent is this shirt?

Seriously, how transparent is this shirt?

Faced with his family responsibilities in his next step, Anthony has moved on to darker tones, like plush navy blue velvet tail coats. “He was quite a cad in the first season, and now he’s on a trip,” says Canale. “He is much more serious and takes his role as the head of the Bridgerton family.”

As for on-screen color cues, keep an eye out for intense jewel tones, as Kate’s teals and sapphires intentionally (sorry) match Anthony’s indigos.

“Certainly,” says Canale. “They are on this trip.”

The second season of “Bridgerton” premieres Friday, March 25 on Netflix.

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