Loewe S/S 2022 heels give outfits a surreal floral
Loewe’s “readymade” heels give outfits a surreal touch
The head of a rose, a bar of soap, a candle dripping with wax – Loewe’s surreal heels see creative director Jonathan Anderson take inspiration from artist Man Ray’s ‘readymades’
“I wanted something erotic, psychedelic, bordering on surrealism,” says Loewe creative director Jonathan Anderson of the inspiration behind the Spanish house’s S/S 2022 womenswear collection, shown for the first time in October last year in Paris. American visual artist Man Ray, who elevated and transformed mundane found objects – a ticking metronome, an iron, the roll of a violin – into a series of “ready-made” sculptures in the 1920s, was the inspiration for Anderson’s impressive, seemingly pared-back stilettos: heels formed from a rose head, lilac soap, a bottle of red nail polish, a candle dripping with wax (a pair even took the form of a cracked eggshell, each yellow yolk seeming to spill onto the trail below). “There is an interesting irony in the ready-made,” says the designer.
When we examine someone’s outfit, we are naturally inclined to turn our attention to the floor first. “The eye usually reads a bottom-up fashion look,” Anderson says, but for Spring ’22, he’s asking his audience to change their perspective. During Loewe’s Paris Fashion Week show – held in the historic La Garde Républicaine’s equestrian training arena, this time stripped entirely of decoration to become a sparse white space “resembling a sheet of paper virgin” – the brand’s models appeared from a trapdoor in the catwalk, encouraging an audience to admire their head-to-toe ensembles. As the viewer’s eye traces the silhouette, they are surprised by a final surreal flourish appearing at the sole of the foot.
“Everything seems normal, but it really isn’t,” Anderson says of the choice. “I didn’t want to create a collection completely grounded in reality.” §