Paris Fashion Week begins its second full day

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A model wears a creation for the Saint Laurent Spring-Summer 2022 ready-to-wear show presented on Tuesday, September 28, 2021 in Paris. (AP Photo / Thibault Camus)

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Paris Fashion Week entered its second full day on Wednesday – with shows spanning grassy fields, golden salons and Napoleon’s final resting place. But all eyes are on Balmain’s evening show.

Here are some highlights of the spring 2022 collections in the City of Light:

ROCHAS IS ECLECTIC

The gilded columns of the gilded Mona Bismarck hotel set the mood for the often resplendent Rochas exhibition to a small crowd of fashion insiders.

It all started with a shimmering ruched gold dress and giant gold pirate boots. It was the piece de resistance. It was designer Charles de Vilmorin in a daring and eclectic form.

The show’s ratings spoke of a “strange beauty” and “cinematic vignettes” that this collection would attempt to evoke. It has succeeded. Rochas’ floating forms, including tumbling parachute skirts, captured an ethereal, otherworldly vibe.

Loose, oversized proportions in the skirts and pants, along with the ubiquitous gathers and ruffles, give this show a light, floaty feel. On more than one occasion, the thorny details have given de Vilmorin’s designs an impression of Dutch couture designer Iris Van Herpen.

However, there were perhaps too many creative ideas here and the collection suffered, including a Balkan-style leather tunic dress followed by Glam Rock boots.

THE ART OF INVITATION

Paris Fashion Week is back, after a year spent mainly in digital. And with it, the energy-consuming couriers who crisscross Paris to personally deliver invitations to always elaborate shows, often handmade.

The era of email and growing environmental awareness doesn’t seem to have left a big mark on the fashion industry’s archaic invitation system. Big houses compete for the most wacky or imaginative idea, which often bears a clue to the theme of its runway collection.

Valentino’s invitation featured artistic slides of images from Parisian cafes, models, and snippets of French poetry.

Yves Saint Laurent was a black snakeskin leather case with a huge “YSL” logo that weighed it down in gold metal. The guest’s initials were engraved inside, also in gold.

COURRÉGES IS SPORTING AT 60

For its 60th anniversary, the Space Age house in Courrèges was in great shape, touting the second collection of its latest designer Nicolas Di Felice.

In a season where the 60s seem to have arrived, the brand that defines the generation founded in 1961 by André Courrèges and his wife Coqueline could well have its time.

Flashes of the era’s slim figure and retro minidress were in abundance on Wednesday. Those mixed with the Space Age signature sparkle – seen in wading boots that made a very sexy statement indeed.

But the staging of the show on a grassy field was the main clue of its direction this season: Sport riding. A baseball cap was a version of a riding helmet alongside flared pants with a fringed hem cleverly resembling the leg of a county horse. The oversized earrings looked like a quick-release knot from a stable.

The clean palette contrasted nicely with the eerie glow of cadmium yellow or brilliant azure to give this sleek collection a youthful feel.

FASHION FOR ALL BODIES

Fundraising and awareness raising for the victims of the war, the First Lady of France Brigitte Macron will join Defense Minister Florence Parly and other senior officials at the Hôtel des Invalides on Wednesday evening for an unusual parade of Fashion Week in Paris.

A new collection by Italian designer Fabio Porlod will feature female amputees and injured women. They will walk in front of the monument, which is Napoleon’s last resting place.

The French Defense Ministry said on Wednesday that “the initiative is part of a charity event whose funds raised will improve the living environment of seriously wounded war-wounded, victims of attacks and people hospitalized at the National Institution of Invalids “.


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