Ties are the biggest accessory trend for women SS22
Ladies, get out your buttonholes and polish up your Windsor knot, because the tie is officially in for spring 2022.
In March, as fashion month drew to a close, Louis Vuitton opened its show with what would become one of the season’s most definitive accessory trends. As the proverbial curtain was drawn, squid game Hoyeon Jung, Nicolas Ghesquière’s favorite actor, walked down the catwalk wearing a cool shirt and kitsch floral tie. According to vogue, the fall-winter 2022 collection of the Parisian house is inspired by the “young adult”. The series of messy, knotted styled looks that followed gave the disheveled prep of a college student rushing to class, the naive enthusiasm of a fresh grad’s first day at work.
Off the catwalk, Louis Vuitton’s ties read as less collegial – after all, a tie is about business first. Musician turned actor Alana Haim and The worst person in the world star Renate Reinvests attended the 2022 BAFTAs and Oscars wearing Vuitton ties. It was a pair of looks that said “I came here to win”.
Louis Vuitton wasn’t the only brand to grace red carpets with newly knotted womenswear. Zendaya attended vanity loungefor the Oscars after-party in a double-breasted suit and tie from Sportmax’s FW22 show. The perfectly tailored look recalls the sensual power of Marlene Dietrich, another proponent of the tie. On the trail of the press for Everything everywhere all at onceMichelle Yeoh wore a number of tie-adorned looks in the pages of Interview magazine. With the actor who has already made the buzz at the Oscars for her All performance, the look signaled that Yeoh won’t be around to perform in the upcoming awards season.
However, like the padded shoulder, the tie isn’t just meant to accommodate power. In the annals of fashion, the greatest tie wearer in women’s fashion is undoubtedly Annie Hall. The protagonist of the 70s film, played by the eternal Diane Keaton, wore his own with a bowler hat and an unbuttoned men’s waistcoat, and exuded an eccentric charm instead. More than a decade later, julia robert won a Golden Globe Award wearing an oversized wool suit and floral tie that echoed Hall’s pioneering look.
In the 21st century, the tie has become a must for the modern boy. Perhaps thanks, in part, to the revival of Saint Laurent at the hands of Hedi Slimane, and now Anthony Vaccarello. With the creation of Tuxedo “The Tuxedo” in the 1960s, Yves Saint Laurent became one of the first designers to push the boundaries of androgynous dressing, dressing celebrities like Catherine Deneuve and Bianca Jagger in masculine pieces adapted to the female body. Today, the French brand’s carefree heritage lives on in the likes of Charlotte Gainsbourgwho associates her ties with Stan Smiths, and Sofia Coppola, notorious Francophile, who wore the accessory on the pages of Harper’s Bazaar and French vogue.
For Pre-fall 2022, Dior by Maria Grazia Chiuri gave a contemporary and youthful touch to the Parisian suit and tie. Inspired by school uniforms, the lookbook featured skinny black ties worn under shift dresses, tucked into pleated skirts and Bermuda shorts. The following season, the spectators whose actor Gugu Mbatha Rawemerging model and filmmaker Amelie Gassmann and BLACKPINK’s Jisoo dressed (and strapped) for the house’s Paris Fashion Week show.
In Vuitton’s youthful spirit, the tie was also worn as an emblem of counterculture – or, at least, teenage rebellion. Patti Smith’s Ties were, perhaps, an ironic send-off of the establishment that ’70s punk rock railed against. In 2002, April Lavigne made the tie his signature with the same intention, but with a different effect.
However, this season Ralph Lauren continued the effort to reestablish its label as an American institution. To show off his FW22 collection, the designer transformed one of MoMA’s many galleries into a replica of his Upper East Side apartment, complete with sleek white sofas where attendees, including Lily Collins and Evan Mock, sipped coffee. champagne and cocktails. bella and Gigi Hadid walked the runway, watching the guests on either side. It was an intimate and opulent affair, intended to bolster Lauren’s reputation as the de facto purveyor of American glamour, country club luxury and Manhattan glitz. Thus, all the designer’s signatures were on display: equestrian equipment, Fair Isle sweaters, tartan coats, blazers and houndstooth ties, for men and women. Lauren, according to fashion tradition, was the designer of Annie Hall’s tie.
Zoë Kendall is a writer and editor specializing in fashion and culture.